Vera Edge and the newer Gen5 devices from Aeon Labs, the SS6, MS6 and RGBW

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VeraEdge Z-Wave Home Controller

VeraEdge Z-Wave Plus Home Controller

Aeon Labs SS6 packaging 1000x1000

Aeon Labs Z-Wave Plus Smart Switch 6 – Model ZW096-ZWUS

Aeon Labs MS6 packaging 1000x1000

Aeon Labs Z-Wave Plus MultiSensor 6 – Model ZW100-ZWUS

aeon labs led bulb zw098 packaging 1000x1000

Aeon Labs Z-Wave Plus RGBW LED Bulb 9W (70W) Model ZW098-ZWUS

 

 

 

 

 

 

We have been working with Aeon Labs and Vera Controls for the past few weeks to figure out why the Aeon Labs Multisensor6, the Smart Switch 6 and the RGBW LED bulbs are having so many problems working with the VeraEdge, a Zwave Plus controller with the same series 500 chip as all Gen5 devices.

Yesterday, Vera Controls revealed that VeraEdge is not yet compatible with any of the new Gen5 devices from Aeon Labs, the aforementioned 3 products.  They are aware of the problem and are working on a new firmware update which is supposed to solve the problems.  We wanted to give all you Vera users a heads up in case you were also having issues as well.

We have tested all 3 Aeon Labs products on Fibaro HCLite, ISY994iZW/PRO IR, CastleOS, Gateway 3.0 from IpDatatel to date, and no issues whatsoever so it is clearly a Vera problem, not the devices.

Anyways, just wanted you all to know!  We will update this post as we get more info on the firmware upgrade, but please also check your Vera’s for it as well.

Have a great day, and thanks for letting us “automate YOUR world!”

Kelly R. Foster – HA World

Implications of ZigBee 3.0: Towards a More Universal Home Automation Standard … Kinda Like Z-Wave

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One big gripe about ZigBee, the home automation and energy management technology, is that it isn’t really a standard. Not all ZigBee “Pro” interoperable devices communicate with others.

More from the original author’s website…

Now I get that everyone is sick of new so-called standards, but I see Zigbee 3.0 as being quite a bit different. I have never been a fan of the separate profiles that zigbee uses but they have been around as long as Z-Wave and with this new “3.0 standard” (I am not sure the term “standard” is even the correct name for it) almost all of them with the exception of Crestron/Control4 devices and Zigbee Energy metering devices used by the power companies will now be compatible. There may even be a potential for integrating 6LowPan devices, although thats a guess on my part. I am also wondering if 3.0 will include Centralite and their Cable Co HA products (Azela) into the mix as being compatible with ZHA1.2 as well. That would even integrate TWC/Comcast, here in the US, and Rogers, in Canada, HA systems as being more DIY ready as well as making their Jetstream products compatible with Azela, and further compatible with Philips HUE or others – again just a guess.

I see this as groundbreaking news for HA because, one, its not really a new standard but more about the integration of existing zigbee profiles, and two, it seems like there may be a potential here, once Thread has been finalized and is more mature, for popular products like Nest, Philips Hue, WeMo, and many more to be all capable of speaking to each other. Thats possible to some degree now with bridges but I am getting the impression that these devices may even be able to communicate P2P without a bridge or a hub, similar to Insteon devices. Just surmising on that one.

Also, this new ratification is not supposed to have any affect on existing devices, so developers can keep making Zigbee HA 1.2 devices, NEST can keep making 6Lowpan devices and they may ALL be compatible with 3.0 via OTA firmware updates, but all the older profiles will be forward compatible with the new 3.0. If you ask me, Zigbee just became a major threat to Z-Wave. Not picking sides here, I love Z-Wave and Insteon, but I never believed Zigbee was going to be a true threat to the DIY HA industry until now. Just my opinion.

Thank you for letting us, “automate YOUR world”!

Kelly R. Foster – HA World

Fibaro Z-Wave RGBW/LED Strip Controller – In Stock!

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rgbw-right 500x500

One of the most unique Z-Wave devices to hit the market, the Fibaro Z-Wave RGBW controller is a unique multifunctional device that controls low-voltage LED/RGB/RGBW lights and halogen lamps (12/24V), with dimming functionality and power metering for LED lights. Connect up to 4 analogue sensors for monitoring and control of temperature, soil humidity, dusk/dawn light levels, air quality and pressure, CO2, pH levels, distance/proximity sensors, and much more.

In addition to RGBW/LED low voltage lights, strips and tapes the RGBW Controller from Fibaro allows for managing four independent light channels. It’s the world’s only wireless controller allowing for dimming up to four connected light sources independently. RGBW Controller’s versatility ensures correct operation of 12V and 24V light sources as well low voltage halogen lights.

It’s an excellent way to provide mood lighting to any atmosphere, not only enhancing your living space environment but the combination of 3 million available colors can also provide intuitive house alerts based upon weather, temperature, door/window sensor status and more.  You imagination is your only limit!

Thanks for listening and as always, thanks for letting us “Automate Your World”.

Kelly R. Foster – HA World

Wiring a 4-way circuit using Z-Wave switches from GE/Jasco (Model 45609/45612 Primary & 2-45610 Auxiliaries)

GE Jasco Z-Wave Switches
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OK, here is an oldy but a goody – as they say – How do I wire a 4-way circuit using Ge or Jasco Z-Wave switches? I get this one alot so thought I would get a post about it up on the blog to see if this will help some of you stuck on how to wire these in properly. Here we go…

You need one master (45609 or 45612) and two slaves (45610) to control a circuit with one light at three switches. This is called a 4-way circuit.

You start by determining which switch box has the load in it – that will be where you wire in your Primary or Master switch (either a 45609 or a 45612), and will also need to have a neutral present if you are using a 45609, but not for a 45612 as it doesn’t need one. You also need a Line wire, a Load and a Traveler as well.

At each slave box, where the 45610 goes, you only need a traveler wire going back to the 45609/45612 and a neutral. The line wire is not required at the slave box locations so you can usually cap it off unless it is in the middle of a circuit and is needed for continuity.

That’s it for the wiring. Now just make sure everything works locally, and then you can continue with adding the master or primary to your z-wave network (aka “including” them or completing the “inclusion” process). Only the master switch needs to be included as the 45610’s do not have a z-wave radio in them, all commands are received by the master and sent over the travelers.

Multi-ways are tricky so the biggest piece of advice I can give you is to use a tester and identify every wire’s purpose in every box BEFORE you even begin. You only need specific wires at each box as above, NOT as we used to wire 3-ways with standard switches in the past. To reiterate…

  1. The Master Switch
    1. For a dimming 4-way circuit using a 45612 as your Master –
      1. You need a Line, Load & Traveler at the primary box where the master 45612 is installed.
    2.  For a non-dimming, on/off (relay) switch using a 45609 as your Master –
      1. You need a Line, Load, Neutral & Traveler at the primary box where the master 45609 is installed.
  2. The Slave Switches
    1. The 2 other switch boxes are the slave switches where you install the 45610’s, you ONLY need a traveler and a Neutral. NO LINE, NO LOAD.

Wire colors are not dependable – they are quite often at the sole discretion of the previous electrician or “handyman” who last worked on your wiring.  For this reason, I do not refer to the colors, and neither should you, except as a starting point. I am not saying that you should ignore the colors altogether because if you’re looking for a neutral wire and there is a white wire bundled with one or two others and shoved into the back of the box, chances are pretty good that those are neutrals, and I am sure you will be fine to pigtail another chunk of white wire into that bundle and off you go.

But, if you test first and find that one of the black wires (or pink ones! Oh No, now what! to make my point about colors) does not seem to have 120 Volts running through it, you can still adjust what the “actual” purpose of that wire is (its probably a load wire in this scenario) and save yourself some time and aggravation by not frying the switch, or even worse, electrocuting yourself.

Multi-way circuits can be difficult to get your head around, although HA multi-way circuits are easier to do, imo, then the old ones, but if you follow my advice as above, I hope it will help you make this important jump in changing your mindset when wiring 3-ways, 4-ways, or 20-ways!  And, remember…

IF ANY OF THIS SCARES YOU, OR YOU THINK IT MAY BE A BIT OVERWHELMING, THEN PLEASE CALL AN ELECTRICIAN!

Thank you for letting us, “automate YOUR world”!

Kelly R. Foster – HA World